Globusz^® Publishing 

Our intended route was to be northward into Scandinavia, across the Arctic Circle, down through the Communist countries, through Turkey to Jordan, Iraq, Pakistan, India and Nepal, and then to return by a different route across Europe.

Having decided this, our first task was to allocate costs to the venture. A figure of £1 a day for the total amount of petrol required was quickly obtained by measuring the approximate mileage and estimating the vehicle’s fuel-consumption.[1] We reckoned an allowance of £1 per day would be sufficient for food and then added to this cost for the vehicle and all the associated equipment that would be required. We then related the total to our rate of saving and concluded that all being well we would be able to leave after a period of one year.

Based purely on mileage, we divided our journey into the respective countries and thought our figure of sixty-five miles per day on average was not unreasonable. It must depend on where one’s interest is centred, but I did not think that an average mileage in excess of one hundred miles per day for long periods would be advisable. We were more interested in meeting people and seeing something of countries through which we were to pass.

In order to obtain a visa for Russia it was necessary to pre-book all accommodation, and this had to be done through a recognised travel agent. We asked Thomas Cook & Son Ltd., to book camping for us in Russia and in all the other Communist countries that we intended to visit, with the exception of Yugoslavia. They also obtained our visas for this part of the journey. Having made this first move, we were then in a position to think more definitely about the type of vehicle that we should use.

Over a period of some months we occasionally visited showrooms in order to get ourselves acquainted with the various types of converted vehicles. Of all that we saw we invariably favoured the Commer, but considered that a Land Rover would be a much more reliable means of transport, particularly if we were going to meet any rough roads. We were well aware, however, that a Land Rover would cost us more money and that we would probably have to decide against it on that account.

One day, whilst on my travels to and from work, I saw a Land Rover standing on the forecourt of a Petrol-Service Station; it was a Dormobile conversion, the first that I had seen. I pulled in to have a closer look. The owner, who happened to be the manager of the Service Station, was pleased to show it to me and luckily, it was for sale. It was petrol-driven, less than a year old and only had six thousand miles to its name. The roof could be erected, the seats could be made into beds, there were two additional bunks at high level and there were also cupboards and a calor gas stove. The main difference over any of the other vehicles we had seen was that there was less room, particularly in width, and that the interior was more cold-looking with a great deal of bare metal. We were faced with a situation: should we choose comfort or reliability? Definitely there were several advantages with the Land Rover. Apart from the tyres, which looked adequate for any road, there was the four-wheel drive and low ratio gears. The whole construction was particularly strong and, a personal preference, I liked the idea of having an engine in front rather than beside me in the cab. We convinced ourselves that this would be the most suitable vehicle for our purpose and before long had laid a deposit with the owner to secure it.

I well remember the cold and drizzling Saturday morning when we collected the Land Rover and drove towards Epping Forest. After an ordinary car it seemed quite heavy to handle and we sat much higher above the road. Soon I became acquainted with the two extra gear levers used for low ratio and four-wheel drive. Everything around us rattled incessantly. And the grey metal of the cupboards felt cold and uninviting. Had we done the right thing? I looked across at Audrey as we bumped over the grass and stopped in a desolate, muddy clearing.

“Well what do you think of our new home?”– I enquired.

“I’m not sure. Perhaps it will be better when we get used to it”– she said.

“Let’s have the roof up.”

The roof was raised easily, and I left Audrey looking around the inside while I jumped out to examine the engine. Everything seemed to be in good condition. It was just as well, for on those four wheels stood our home for a whole year. The idea took a little getting used to.

One or two small modifications had to be made which included the removal of a seat to provide an extra cupboard along one side, and the removal of the calor gas stove, as it was our intention to use petrol. Once the gas cooker and bottles had been taken out this reduced the weight a little, and made available a space under the driving seat which was conveniently used for three one-gallon spare oil cans and a large tin for the storage of other items.

The black rubber floor we covered with lino and this, together with the newly dyed curtains of cherry red gave the interior a much brighter and more homely appearance. After a thorough cleaning into all the nooks and crannies we felt that we could turn our attention to the problem of what we should take with us.

In order to ensure that everything was bought in good time, we drew up a list of equipment that was divided under the following headings - food, clothing, spares, camping and cooking equipment and medical supplies.

We had read how groups doing similar journeys had received some sort of assistance in return for advertising products whilst travelling. With this is mind, we wrote several letters to firms offering our services and telling them our plans. We then waited for the replies. It soon became evident that if a University or Society had sponsored our venture, we might have received more support. However, some of the replies made amusing reading. One firm sent us two very small tubes of toothpaste, hoping that this gift would get us as far as Italy. A firm manufacturing toilet rolls went to considerable trouble, sending two double-page letters, in an attempt to explain how if they were to give us five toilet rolls, we would effectively get thirty at a reduced rate! By far the most helpful and interested were Tate & Lyle, who gave us thirty pounds of castor sugar and six tins of golden syrup. In fact, they generously offered us as much as we could conveniently carry.

At the local supermarket we asked if they could give us any reduction on a large order. We were referred to the main stores, where we discovered that the manager had been to India, and he was interested enough in our plans to agree to give us a discount. We made a list of the food items that would be advisable to have with us in case they were unavailable or expensive abroad. Included on this was a good quantity of tea, coffee and other beverages, packaged soups, tinned meats, powdered milk and porridge oats. We also decided that a plentiful supply of washing-up liquid and detergent was necessary.

The clothing that we intended to take was far more bulky than we had imagined. We had each invested in sheepskin-lined jackets, balaclavas and gloves for the coldest of conditions. We also took anoraks with removable, quilted linings, and a couple of light nylon macs. Clothing for hot weather was no problem and we worked on the principle of three of each article for underwear to account for the times when it would be difficult to do any washing. Last, but not least, we made sure that we each had two pairs of good stout shoes and a pair of open sandals.

With regard to our camping equipment, we already had a Black’s Standard tent, which we had used during our camping holidays in Scotland, and although quite small, it seemed adequate for our purposes. A flysheet was the only necessary addition. As the ground sheet was separate we decided to sew this in and also provide a mosquito net across the front opening. Our sleeping bags were of continental manufacture and could be zipped to make single or double bags as required. These were only suitable for summer use, so we purchased two Himalayan outers, into which our thinner bags would fit should it be extra cold. We also took one good double blanket. For use in the tent, we had inflatable airbeds, but as we were given two safari beds that could conveniently be stored in the roof space of the Land Rover, we decided to take them as well.

We designed a large box of mosquito netting in which we could both sleep should the necessity occur. Audrey had quite a time sewing all this together, as it was really far too bulky for the machine to cope with. In the latter stages of construction, a visitor would have seen this monstrous cage strung up in our living-room, by means of strings attached to cupboard doors and the like, and Audrey on all fours inside giving an occasional snarl at the complexity of the task.

As I have already indicated, we decided to use petrol stoves for cooking, rather than the calor gas. We thought that it might be difficult or even impossible to obtain gas, but at least we should always have petrol with us. Nevertheless, we also took two camping gas stoves with some spare containers as a reserve.

All our plates, dishes and cups were of unbreakable plastic, and we had Tupperware containers, which are very useful for keeping liquids as well as dry goods. Two conventional good quality saucepans and a non-stick frying pan, although not ideal for neat packing, were taken in preference to a compact canteen of varying sized pans with slip on handles. Other useful articles were two large thermos flasks and a polyroll fitment. The Thermos was wide enough at the top to take butter and cheese, or hot soups or stews. The polyroll fitment, with several spare rolls, gave us paper immediately at hand for many uses.

We could sit round a table inside the Land Rover to have our meals, but so that we could also eat out of doors, we fitted four removable legs to it and took two fold-up chairs.

I will not discuss fully the matter of medical supplies, other than to say that the most necessary medicines were those to combat minor stomach upsets and more serious dysentery contracted as a result of eating strange foods. Our kit was fairly bulky in terms of bandages and lint, but, if required, these may have been needed in quantity. As a first aid we kept a handy box of waterproof elastoplasts and a tube of antiseptic cream for small cuts or burns.

By far the most dangerous source of infection would be water and, as this would be obtained from many varied and suspect localities, we purchased a mechanical filter by which, it was claimed, twenty gallons of water an hour could be filtered by a simple pumping action. This process using a ‘Sterasyl candle’ is as safe as boiling. One advantage of the mechanical filter is that the water does not taste flat, as boiled water does. We also had purification tablets, which could be used if we wished to drink water in a restaurant or hotel.

We knew that it would be advisable to wash all fruit and vegetables when in remote areas and, when a supply of pure water was not available, potash of permanganate solution could be made up for the purpose. We were advised not to eat lettuce at all after crossing into Asia, as it is one of the most vulnerable disease carriers. We also knew that we would also have to take care when buying meat, as much of it is left hanging outside the shops where it is exposed to flies and dirt.

Talking of flies, reminds me that we had a number of ‘Flit’ Aerosol sprays, which are pretty deadly, even if not instantaneous. Apparently, it is not harmful to exposed food, but if used in excess can be very unpleasant. We were so annoyed with the midges one night that we sprayed enough ‘Flit’ into the Land Rover to ensure that no insect would live again, and then had to stand in the rain for about ten minutes before we could stand the atmosphere inside.

We thought it was essential to have a dental check-up and, if there had been any doubt, we would have had a medical check as well. We did however arrange a first aid course through a Local Authority. Having enrolled we found that we learned practically nothing. On the first evening, having explained what we wanted, which was to learn what to do in the event of any severe mishaps, we were given a one inch bandage and taught how to roll it correctly. We then witnessed a prolonged disagreement on the correct method of bandaging a supposed fractured ankle. Audrey, who was the guinea pig, sat for some time trying to take in the words of wisdom, but with both feet stretched out in front of her, she became painfully aware that cramp was setting in. During the tea break, a man happily showed us every single picture and diagram in his first-aid book, without any explanation whatsoever. We were promised that we could have some instruction on artificial respiration, using a dummy, but this never materialised, although we were shown the method in a very uncertain way.

A letter to the Land-Rover Company resulted in them sending us a long list of recommended spares. They informed us that it was possible to obtain these on a ‘sale or return’ basis, less ten per cent.

We carried sufficient tools for all the servicing of the Land Rover, with such things as a hacksaw, vice, files, a soldering iron, and a more substantial box spanner for the wheel nuts. Over some parts of the route it would be necessary to carry a quantity of gear and engine oil, sufficient for complete oil changes. The section under the driver’s seat, suitably modified, was an ideal place to keep these tins. It was almost essential to be able to service the vehicle myself, so I went up to the Rover Company’s works at Solihull, near Birmingham, for a free three-day course, (meals provided), and learned of the fundamental operations, together with some of the known characteristics of the Land-Rover. This was also an interesting experience from another point of view. For the first time I met other people who were doing similar journeys to ours. Altogether I found it an interesting and varied group. A middle-aged couple were off to India, a schoolmaster was taking some pupils to Morocco in a diesel Land-Rover, a University student was going to Africa to study monkeys, and there was a girl who was returning to Jordan and her work there, with the British School of Archaeology, digging at Petra. We were to meet her again in Jerusalem. There was also a Scottish missionary, working in Africa.

The time came when we had to start thinking about our visas. It was impossible to get them all, as many were only valid for three months and so, consequently, would have been outdated by the time we arrived. There were injections to be had, which consisted of, one or more for smallpox, cholera, and T.A.B. (Typhoid) and Tetanus and Polio. The cholera required a booster after six months.

By now we had reached the stage when we could arrange insurance for the Land Rover. We were relieved and amused to find that Messrs. Sluggocki and Norman ‘consider all risks on application’. For most countries a third party insurance is compulsory and although there are a few countries that do not require even this, it is highly recommended that the maximum cover possible be obtained. This we did and coupled with it a Baggage and Medical Insurance offered by the Railway Insurance Group. The rates were moderate and we thought it advisable to make sure that all our valuable items were covered. There was a fair chance that we would lose something.

During the last month or so of our planning, we had acquired a very clear idea of the places that we wanted to visit. We had written to the tourist organisations of every country that we were going to, and from their leaflets, brochures and maps, we were able to give the AA our intended route. The Overseas Department of the AA was able to supply us with excellent route books, which gave us accurate mileage’s from town to town, with notes about road conditions and places of interest. Two booklets which we found particularly useful were - ‘Motoring in Eastern Europe, (this covered the Communist countries) and ‘Motoring in the Middle East’. Both of them gave plenty of clear, concise information to which reference could easily be made.

A final check of our finances showed that we now had enough money to leave, providing we could overcome the one fly in the ointment; to sell our Hillman Minx car for the price we wanted. As a last resort we would have to accept the dealer’s price. We continued our round of visiting friends and relations. Nights tended to be late, and any person looking up to our windows at about one o’clock in the morning, may have been surprised to see two people throwing each other across the room with some resounding thuds. Our landlords, Brian and Doreen Francis lived beneath us. We had become quite friendly and Brian had decided that a short course of judo was necessary before such a venture.

So until the last few days, the car had not been sold. We had one or two anxious days with potential customers, who promised to return with the cash at a certain time and didn’t. It was quite an embarrassing situation to find room for three vehicles, the Land Rover, the Hillman and my firm’s car. You can imagine the position at our flat, where our landlord and his wife also had two cars of no small dimensions, - a Bedford Dormobile and a Cresta Estate. We used to park them almost touching and the milkman vowed that he would soon start canvassing for support to build a flyover in the vicinity.

About four days before our departure, we decided that the Hillman must go to a dealer. Once the transaction had been completed, we went straight to the bank for our traveller’s cheques and to make other arrangements. Cheques of large denominations would be unwieldy, so we asked for a considerable number each to the value of two pounds. Every cheque had to be signed individually, so it took some time before all was completed. Eventually packing day came when our carefully chosen items were put into an allocated place in the Land Rover. Many of the smaller items found their way into biscuit tins that proved to be very serviceable. An eleventh hour S.O.S. for more of these tins sent many an aunt peering into her pantry. Amongst the things that gained themselves a place, apart from those already mentioned were forty 35 mm films, which would allow us to take an average of four photographs per day, binoculars, a telescope, some reference books, a fire extinguisher, a transistor radio and a portable tape recorder. Amazingly everything fitted in.

Friends often interrupted the packing process and neighbours who wanted to inspect our future home. On the last evening before our departure there was a large group of well-wishers around the Land Rover. We had the roof up to allow the children to jump up and try the bunks, while the women were anxious to see how the kitchen department would work. As we went to bed that night we remembered our last visitor, an old woman who, appearing as if by magic in the twilight, handed us a small box containing a St. Christopher keepsake. She then disappeared leaving us wondering who she was.